27) Installing the new springs
- Chris Stanley
- Feb 9, 2020
- 4 min read
Time to finish this big job and get the car back on the road.
February 8th 2020
With my new springs sitting patiently on the kitchen floor, it's time to reach for the knife and open up the packaging to see what I've got. It's like Christmas!



After checking everything over, it all appears to be present and correct so it's time to start unbolting the old springs from the car. First I jacked the car as high as I could, using a trolley jack under the diff casing and then positioned a set of axle stands underneath the bumper supports. I know this doesn't sound very sturdy but that is exactly what the original workshop manual suggests. Fortunately the structure of my car is very sound with minimal corrosion so the bumper points still look to be very strong. I also added extra support under each sill for safety before removing the jack and allowing the axle to rest under its own weight. With the suspension now unloaded I could begin to undo all the bolts, starting with the U-bolts that attach the springs to the axle.

Once this was done I discarded the old U-bolts and nuts, then I removed the shock absorber brackets and guide plates, setting them aside for cleaning. With the centre of the spring now detached from the axle, I moved to the rear and undid all the bolts on the swinging shackle. The shackle end-plates then joined the other parts waiting to be cleaned and the rear end of the spring was lowered to the floor.
Sliding myself to the front spring mount, the locating pin was completely seized onto the guide plate, meaning I had to use my angle grinder to cut off the small bolts which held the guide plate in place. A bit of levering with a screwdriver and persuasion with a hammer saw the plate and pin come out as a single unit and the first spring was released!




A smear of red rubber grease then went onto the new bushes before they were fitted into the ends of the new springs. This will help keep them in good shape for longer and won't degrade the rubber in the way a petroleum based grease would.
The next step was to gather up all the brackets that I was planning to reuse and set about them with a wire brush and an angle grinder to clean them up ready for repainting. Then it was a coat of black Hammerite to give them an extra level of protection.



I then left them for a day to dry before bolting the refurbished shock absorbers to their brackets, using some blue thread locker for added security. Now everything is ready to go back together!

Now it was time to start fitting the new springs... I started by fitting a new pair of front guide plates to replace the ones I had to grind off. These were bolted into place using thread locker to stop them from working loose over time. Then the new spring was positioned into the front bracket and the guide pin was slid through the bushes and bolted into place. I tightened up the bolt just enough to pull the head of the guide pin into the guide plate, full tightening will only happen once the suspension is under load.


With the front bracket now attached, I assembled the pins, bushes and shackle end-plates to the rear of the spring. I then lifted it up and attached it to the rear spring mount, tightening everything up lightly.
Finally, I lowered the axle down onto the centre of the spring and connected everything together using a new set of U-bolts. The bump-stop went on top of the axle with the U-bolts sliding over the top and down through the guide plates and finally through the shock absorber bracket. Everything was then tightened up snugly.


After realising the poor state my old shock absorber drop-links were in I ordered a new set which arrived the next day. They were quite inexpensive so it made sense to renew both of them. After greasing up the top bushes, I pushed them onto the mounting pins and tightened them into place. Then I attached the lower taper-fit end into the shock absorber lever and tightened that down as well.

Everything was repeated on the other side of the car and if it drives as good as it looks then I'll be a happy man!
I jacked up the car again and repositioned the axle stands under the axle so that the springs were now carrying the weight of the car. Then I tightened up all the bolts properly.
One final little job to do before re-fitting the wheels. I noticed a bit of corrosion along the underside of the car and around the fuel tank so I spent about an hour, wire brushing and then painting all the trouble areas with underseal.

After all that I have aches in places I didn't even know I had but it's always satisfying to do a job well and not have to pay a garage. After a quick tidy around, my wheels were refitted and the car lowered down off the axle stands. As soon as the weather is nice then I'll take it for a long test drive!

Hi Phil,
That's very strange. I have also fitted the SUS650 springs but they don't come close to bottoming out. The fact your previous springs also did this suggests the problem might be elsewhere. Are you sure no one has pumped your sills full of concrete? 😉
Seriously though, assuming the springs are ok and the car isn't too heavy, do you have standard length end plates on your rear swinging links? If someone has fitted longer ones in the past then that could cause the car to bottom out on bumpy roads but I'm clutching at straws now. Hope you manage to find the problem.
I had my 1967 saloon hitting the bump stops with very little in the boot, plus it visually looked lower. So a mechanic fitted a pair of ESM's 5 leaf springs (SUS650) with a set of their reconditioned shocks 500 miles ago, yet it still tends to bottom out, albeit not as much though. The bump stops were trimmed, so I now wonder on the quality of the ESM springs, be interesting to see how yours fare over time.
Phil
Thanks Lee. Yes the job did seem a bit daunting to me as well but I took it slowly, step by step, and it didn't seem so bad. Just work on the assumption that there will be some seized bolts that might need grinding off!
Took the car for a test drive today and it's so much better, it used to sound like a creaky old mattress before and now it's lovely and quiet. :)
I did my front trunnion top bushes a few months back and that was an easier job than I anticipated so hopefully yours will go smoothly!
All the best,
Chris
Well done Sir. Many thanks once more for your efforts. This is a job I have on my to-do list and your description and great pix make it seem much less daunting than my quick looks at the manual indicated. But first I have to do my front end, and I'm gradually accumulating all the bits and pieces to replace all bushes, trunnions and pivots, ball joints etc. That job has me a bit nervous, though I'm assured it's straightforward enough. I did do a moggie partial front rebuild about 30 years ago, but the process is long forgotten, and I'm also not looking forward to the aches. Thank goodness for paracetamol.
Hi Alan, yes Moggies are famous for having soggy and bouncy suspension which is why some people upgrade them to modern shocks and springs. Personally I quite like the soft suspension, especially on the broken up roads we have around here! If it was a powerful car then firm suspension would be advisable but for the Moggie I think the original setup works perfectly. 🙂